Mario Empanya- A Black man with a global mission

In 2008 Vogue made headlines across the world when the Italian edition created the Black issue which featured Black models. It was a big move for Vogue, who is considered a longtime leader in the fashion world but with that one great step forward, they have now taken great steps back. The pictures that accompany this posting were all shot by Mario Epanya for what he had hoped would be Vogue Africa, an African edition of the magazine. His vision for the magazine came from his belief that it was lacking in African influence.

“I read my first Vogue in 1979 and have been buying it regularly ever since. I always felt that African creativity was not represented.” -Epanya

“I also realized that black women in Western magazines didn’t correspond to African beauty. Women in Western magazines frequently had light skin, fine features, and long hair. Today I think black women want to re-appropriate their image and don’t want others to dictate what is beautiful and what isn’t. Beauty is diverse and today we aspire to more diversity of choice. So when I got the idea to create the covers, I said, why not?” -Epanya

Epanya, created several sample covers for the envisioned Vogue Africa and presented them to Vogue publisher Conde Nast. Nevertheless he was met with rejection. Afterwards Epanya posted on his Facebook page:

“DEAR ALL. The Wait is over. Condé Nast said NO to an African license of VOGUE. So this is the last cover. Enjoy, but it’s a beginning of something”

This is only the beginning. Epanya plans to start his own high fashion magazine, which will feature a non-white & non-Western standard of beauty. He may even opt to purchase the license that will allow him to create Vogue Africa. While Empanya has many supporters, he has been met with challengers. Some have made the argument that Africa is and always will be a player in the fashion game. Magazines such as Arise and Canoe are examples, yet, Vogue magazines in Africa are still more popular. Sadly, African designers still need validation from the West. Yes, Colonialism is still a nasty bitch! For this reason Epanya feels that it is necessary to join forces with the great force that is Vogue and branch out.

His response to his critiques:

“Bullshit, bullshit, bullshit. Africa is behind in a number of sectors, including politics, chemistry, research, I could go on. I’m sorry, but we can’t enter into war with the people who created the internet, cell phones, and airplanes. No, I didn’t create the Ipad, life saving vaccines, or Google but I’m happy for the things that contribute to our lives so that the world advances. I’m not at war with the West…and I think that instead of living in the rancor of a difficult past between the races, we should look at how we can exchange between people.”

SO now the question is: Should the Africans nations move to sit at the big global table or should they continue to build their own table? Epanya clearly believes that it is time not only for Africans to take their place at the table but to bring along their own dishes for the rest of the world to experience.

The Arabic edition was also rejected, but Vogue India was launched.  Perhaps there wasn't enough room at the table for Africa...it is a continent after all.

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